She’s a best-selling novelist and cookbook author and I refer to Dori Sanders’ Country Cooking from my Skillet Diaries library often.
The back jacket cover promises “a pinch of nostalgia, a scoop of wisdom, a hearty helping of laughter and warmth—and over 100 recipes.” And that’s exactly what I’ve always appreciated about this 1995 cookbook memoir.
I was acquainted with Dori only through her books (see sources). But when I learned we had both been invited to share our stories at the Charleston, South Carolina conference, I immediately scheduled an interview through her publisher’s office.
Looking forward to the Carolina Lowcountry & Caribbean event, my excitement soared when I also scheduled interviews with former Essence food editor, Jonell Nash (1942-2015) and reknown cookbook collector, Janice Langone (1933-2022). I also looked forward to more casual “catching up” with Jessica Harris, Nathalie Dupree, Toni Tipton-Martin, Paul Fregia, Damon Lee Fowler, Marcie Ferris, John Martin Taylor …and more food colleagues (see notes below) whose names were still unfaded on the long-ago conference roster. I had discovered it tucked away in papers saved from my mom’s memorial service.
Memorial service?
Yes.
Mom’s sudden “ancestor promotion” two weeks before the Charleston conference blindsided our family. But I can still see the determined, sad reaction on my father’s face when I mentioned plans to cancel the Charleston conference trip. “We have so many friends and family members circled for continued support,” he said. “If your mother was here now, you know she would insist on no cancellation.”
I flew to Charleston to stay in the bed and breakfast hosted by the Johnson & Wales/ Charleston College sponsors, where I discovered Dori Sanders already checked in to the small room as my roommate.
Closing teary eyes, I whispered “Thank you, Mom,” recalling conversations about us both feeling as if we knew Dori Sanders well just from reading her recipe headnotes. Dori didn’t know us. Yet.
When I opened the door, she asked if I needed a hug before pointing to the tiny bed-and-breakfast table already set with two tea cups.
She knew about Mom.
Later, seated across from each other, Dori seemed to understand that I wasn’t ready to even whisper about recent events, my mother or my sense of loss. Instead of addressing my grief, Dori poured tea and retold the “Aunt Vistula tea story” which I remembered from the book.
She continued on about her parent’s delight when “Aunt V” visited the farm, bringing fresh seafood from her low-country home. During the long weekend that I later came to fondly describe as a “Healing Recipe Exchange,” Dori brought up everything about southern family food preparation, cooking terms, tools and ingredients. She underscored her fondness for “stretching the meat with chicken cracklings,” sweet potatoes, and grating nutmeg by hand.
Now, two decades later, I do not recall much about the conference, interviews, my presentation or any conversations. In fact, I only remember our marathon sessions when we retold family recipes created in long-ago kitchens, and shared with cooks now gone. “You were so filled with sorrow. I’ve never seen anyone so filled with sadness,” Dori said from her farmhouse during a recent phone conversation, when I mentioned that weekend’s deep significance.
Looking back, I believe this is where the first seeds were planted for the books I’m writing, SkilletDiaries.com, SkilletDiaries.substack.com and the friendship I’ve grown to treasure with Dori, a family cook less than five years younger than my mother.
Comparing recipes between generations offers a strong reminder about the major role storytelling plays in preserving our peace of mind as well as our cultural food history.
Thank you, Dori.
WILD SPRING GREENS ½ pound fresh beets 2 cups small fresh broccoli spears 4 cups torn young dandelion greens, washed and dried 2 green onions, finely chopped 1 large garlic clove, minced 1 tablespoon each, freshly chopped: parsley, cilantro 2 tablespoons chopped boiled raw peanuts, optional 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 teaspoons each: red wine vinegar, balsamic vinegar, honey ⅛ teaspoon salt, or to taste I teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste Cook beets in 1 quart of boiling water in a medium saucepan until just tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Drain; cool. Peel and dice. Set aside. Rinse saucepan and bring to a boil in a second quart of water over high heat. Add broccoli. Cook until bright green and tender, about 3 minutes. Drain; transfer broccoli to a bowl of ice water to chill. Drain; set aside. Combine the beets, broccoli, dandelion greens, green onions, garlic, parsley, cilantro, and peanuts (if using) in a large bowl. Whisk together olive oil, vinegars, honey, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Pour vinaigrette over vegetables; toss gently to lightly coat all ingredients.
Books by Dori Sanders
Clover by Dori Sanders, 1990
Her Own Place by Dori Sanders, 1993
Dori Sanders Country Cooking by Dori Sanders, 1995
Links to “Food Colleagues” presenting Carolina Lowcountry & Caribbean, 2003
Links Pending:
Jessica Harris
Scott Barton
Lovely!