The Deviled Eggs are in the Details
For our family’s favorite appetizer, the details always include mustard-based seasonings.
This year, while looking forward to leftover Easter eggs, I’m reminded of my father’s long-ago critique of my deviled egg TV demo. “Super,” my protective dad had said. “But don’t forget your grandmother’s rule. You need to replace the term ‘Deviled’.”
And yes, I still vividly recall elegant Gran (my grandmother, Dad’s mother) boldly dismissing the “deviled egg” label as “a coarse phrase” during a childhood visit to Mobile, Alabama. "I know that ‘deviled’ means made with mustard, but we don't have to follow every common trend," Gran had explained, after overhearing my chat with a cousin about favorite foods.
"It's more polite to refer to this dish made with hard-cooked eggs as “Stuffed Eggs” or “Dressed Eggs," she added with a forced smile.
Our more relaxed maternal grandmother encouraged the “deviled” label for eggs, Deviled Crabs, Deviled Oysters and any recipe seasoned with the spicy mustard flavor blend, passed down from her Big Mama’s Gulf Coast Creole kitchen.
Like me, Dad preferred top-quality ingredients stirred into classic, simple recipes. And I kept him supplied with his favorite “Dressed Eggs,” including a Creole-inspired version by Jessica B. Harris in Beyond Gumbo (see sources) where she reminds us about the appetizer’s Creole connection, plus the part they played in the migration of both people and food from the South to the North.
“They often brought a shoebox of food with them: their last tastes of the South… The shoebox inevitably held a deviled egg or two, along with fried chicken, a slab of pound cake, and a cool drink. In this way, deviled eggs have ridden the roads and the rails into pride of place in the foodways of African Americans in the United States. I've added the pimentón for a nontraditional but delicious smokey taste.”
Dad loved both the Great Migration reminder and the recipe, below.
But there’s been a change since Dad’s 2013 ancestor promotion. I’ve returned to describing all recipes as “Deviled Eggs,” staying alert for any signs from ancestors pointing otherwise…
Just don’t forget the mustard.
“You'll never go wrong if, when you make a decision, you keep in mind an old German proverb: 'The devil is in the detail.' Remember that proverb and you'll always be able to turn a wrong decision into a right one”—Paulo Coelho
Gran’s Celebration “Stuffed” Egg
8 eggs 3 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 tablespoon Creole or Dijon mustard 1/4-1/2 teaspoon prepared horseradish Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Place eggs in saucepan and cover with water. Bring water to boil; cover and remove saucepan from heat. Let stand 15 minutes. Drain and add ice to eggs to stop them from cooking.
After peeling, slice each egg in half lengthwise and remove yolk from egg. Mash the yolk into a bowl.Mix the remaining ingredients thoroughly; add slowly to the grated yolk until you reach the desired consistency -- not too creamy, but free of lumps. Top with assorted garnishes, such as dill sprigs, caviar, asparagus tips or our traditional favorite, a dusting of sweet paprika.
Not My Grandmother’s Deviled Eggs
12 large hard-cooked eggs, see note 1/4 cup (0 fat) plain Greek yogurt 2 teaspoons Dijon-style prepared mustard, Creole mustard or other yellow mustard 1/4 teaspoon each: mustard powder, prepared horseradish, salt Sweet or smoked paprika for garnish
Cut eggs in half lengthwise; remove yolks. Mash yolks using a hand grater, fine sieve, ricer or fork. Stir in Greek yogurt, prepared mustard, mustard powder, horseradish and salt, adding more yogurt if needed to reach desired consistency of a smooth, thick cookie dough. Spoon yolk mixture into egg-white halves. Sprinkle with paprika. Chill, covered, until ready to serve. Makes 24 pieces.
Note: To add even more flavor, use your imagination to top the filled eggs with your choice of ingredients such as: chopped olives, chopped roasted red peppers, capers, coarsely chopped blue cheese or chopped roasted nuts.
Deviled Eggs
Adapted from Beyond Gumbo By Jessica Harris
8 hard-boiled eggs 3 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon chile powder ¼ teaspoon pimentón, plus additional, for garnish (see Note)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Carefully remove the eggs from the shells. Slice each in half lengthwise. Remove the yolks. Arrange the whites on a dish (or a deviled egg plate, a Southern must). Place the yolks in a small bowl with the mayonnaise, mustard, chile powder, pimentón, and salt and pepper. Mash with a fork until smooth. Gently spoon a bit of the yolk mixture into each of the whites. (You can be fancy and pipe the yolk in with a pastry bag.) Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least one hour. Sprinkle with pimentón before serving, chilled.
Note: Pimentón is smoked hot Spanish paprika. It adds a zap of chile heat and a wonderful smoky taste. If unavailable, you may use hot paprika.
Spicy Deviled Eggs
Adapted from Family of the Spirit Cookbook by John Pinderhughes
8 eggs 1 tablespoon vinegar 2 teaspoons each, finely chopped: onions, green bell pepper 2 small sweet pickles, finely chopped 1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley ½ teaspoon each: celery salt, onion powder ½ teaspoon ground red pepper 1 teaspoon Dijon-style or Creole mustard ½ cup mayonnaise ½ teaspoon each: salt, black pepper and sweet paprika, or to taste 1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
Place the eggs in a saucepan; cover with water. Heat 4 minutes over medium-high heat; add vinegar. Heat to a boil.
Cook 8 to 10 minutes. Place the eggs in cold water; set aside to cool. Peel and cut eggs in half lengthwise. Scoop out the yolks; transfer to a mixing bowl.
Add the onion, green pepper, pickles and parsley. Mash the yolks, mixing well. Stir in the celery salt, onion powder, red pepper, mustard, mayonnaise, salt and pepper, mixing well until thick and creamy. (Stir in more mayonnaise if the mixture is too dry.) Spoon the mixture into the egg halves; sprinkle with paprika.
Sources:
Beyond Gumbo: Creole Fusion Food from the Atlantic Rim by Jessica B. Harris (Simon & Schuster, 2003)
Family of the Spirit Cookbook by John Pinderhughes (Simon & Shuster, 1990)
We Remember Mama/ I Remember Mama (Family Printing, 1983 & 2003)
Another beautiful column, Donna. Thanks for the recipes. I’ve never met a deviled egg I didn’t like, so I’ll try them all. The tricky part is boiling eggs so that they peel easily. Here’s the trick: Use the Nordic Ware microwave egg boiler. It’s foolproof. Eggs always peel cleanly, and you can adjust timing to suit your preference, from runny to medium to classic yellow. Available on Amazon. And no, I don’t get a commission, but I’ve recommended this gem of a gadget to many friends and relatives.
Keep me posted. And thank you for reading and commenting.